Big Cottonwood Canyon is full of many good climbing opportunities for climbers who range from beginner to expert.
This canyon contains many routes, and is a favorite place for many climbers. It is frequented from the time the snow starts melting in March until the middle of fall.
The rock climbing in Big Cottonwood Canyon differs drastically from that of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Big Cottonwood is made of quartzite, which is a smoother and sharper rock, making the angles much trickier than a granite slab offers. There are many spots to climb that are easy to get to just off the main road coming up into the canyon.
Slips or Dogwood are both near the mouth of the canyon where you can hike up the side and set up top ropes.
Storm Mountain is an excellent location, as many different climbing routes surround it. Most of the routes around Storm Mountain are sport routes with a few traditional routes.
For those new to rock climbing, sport climbing is lead rock climbing, which is similar to traditional, except there are bolts already drilled into the wall. The bolts are what you clip your quickdraw into, so you are able to place your rope inside of the carabineer, giving you protection in the event of a fall. Sport climbing is safer because the bolts are directly in the rock, so the rock assists your gear to catch your fall.
There will be times when rock is loose or unstable, so it is best to test the rock if you feel uncomfortable with what you are about to hold. Some experienced climbers often test the rock by slapping it8212;a hollow sound usually means the rock is rotting or is barely hanging on the wall. In most situations, it is wise to use your best judgment as the person belaying below will be at risk to the falling rocks.
Autumn boasts excellent climbing weather, but spring in Big Cottonwood is also a nice time for climbing.
However, Big Cottonwood Creek begins to crank with spring run off, making it dangerous to cross the creek. There are other ways around the creek, but not as short and direct as in the fall. Crossing the creek any time can be dangerous, but particularly in the spring with near freezing water temperatures, fast moving water and rocky foot holds making serious injury or even drowning a possibility.
Also, respect other climbers you might run into while you are climbing. Usually climbers will be nice and help you if you need it, as this is not a competitive activity. If there is already another climber on a route, you can either wait for your turn or go find another route to climb.
Big Cottonwood Canyon contains a lot of slab climbs, which is where the rock’s face is sheerer than other forms of climbing and does not have as many holds. Slab climbing depends less on strength than on technique and balance. Holds vary route to route.
There are slopers, which is when you use friction to hold yourself there; jugs, similar to grasping a coffee mug; crimps, grabbing the hold with your fingertips; and jams, wedging part of your hand into a crack so you can hold yourself there. There are also a few really excellent cracks in Big Cottonwood Canyon that offer different climbing opportunities than Little Cottonwood.
Nick RosenbergerJeremey Wilkerson builds an anchor on the route Six Appeal in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The rock climbing opportunities in Big Cottonwood Canyon range from begging to expert.