For all the climbers out there, I’ve compiled a list of four solid crags and climbing areas around Utah. Obviously, this list is not comprehensive, but I’ve included a wide array of different areas, each with different difficulties and styles. Whether you’re moving from the gym to crag or you’re a seasoned tradder from out of state, each of these places should give you a nice taste of what Utah has to offer.
Reservoir Ridge
This one is for all you beginning adventurers feeling ready to sink your teeth into outdoor climbing. After you feel comfortable with proper anchor building and leading techniques, Reservoir Ridge is a fantastic place to go. Located just north of the reservoir at the Storm Mountain picnic area, this crag is composed entirely of low-grade routes, most of them bolted.
In my experience, Reservoir Ridge (or “Rezzie Ridge,” for those who want to sound hip), is not nearly as busy as the nearby slips, and for that reason it’s one of my favorite places for some relaxing climbing. “Iraq in the Back Attack” is a solid first sport lead, and “Crack Face” is a lovely trad pitch.
Prophesy Wall
Two years ago, on my first climbing trip ever, I arrived young and bright-eyed at Prophesy Wall — now I can’t wait to return. Located outside of St. George, this is the perfect place to go for a nice weekend trip. Within sight of the Upper Sand Cove Water Reservoir (which also happens to be a great place to spend the night), there are many opportunities for awesome climbs all around the area.
There aren’t a large number of routes that dominate this area, but more than enough for a nice weekend of climbing, especially if you’re looking to hone your multi-pitch game.
Maple Canyon
Climbing in Utah and not knowing about Maple Canyon is like going to ComicCon and not knowing about Batman. Sure, you can call yourself a nerd, but we all know the truth.
A nice two-hour drive from Salt Lake City, this is a great place to rush down for a day. Or better yet, devote a weekend to exploring some of the more than 550 routes that fill up the canyon. Maple Canyon is home to conglomerate, a relatively uncommon rock type for climbing areas, which is why it has attracted so many climbers over the years.
Gate Buttress
If you live in Salt Lake and have been climbing in the canyons for any solid amount of time, chances are you’ve been to Gate Buttress. This place is the sampler for the amazing granite climbing Little Cottonwood Canyon has to offer.
The area holds quite the selection of routes — nearly 100 — many with their own unique styles. The large majority are traditional routes, which makes this a fantastic place for both new leaders and old veterans. For more moderate climbing, give “Beckey’s Wall” a shot. “Bushwhack Crack” is another super fun classic. Experienced climbers will want to give “Equipment Overhang” and “To Air is Human” a try.
There are some awesome times to be had at each of the four places listed, but more than anything, remember that every climbing area in Utah has its own merits.
@thatdickinson