Lezaic: Mark of the Beastro, Devilishly Good

Mark+of+the+Beastro+in+Salt+Lake+City+on+Wednesday%2C+April+27%2C+2023.

Sophie Felici

The outside of Mark of the Beastro in Salt Lake City on Wednesday, April 27, 2023. (Photo by Sophie Felici | The Daily Utah Chronicle)

By Angela Lezaic, Opinion Writer

 

In the words of former NBA player Charles Barkley, Salt Lake is indeed a “boring-ass city.” Although he received backlash from Utah’s most privileged and haughty citizens, I have to agree with him: the dead-end reality of our city is why many residents feel stuck here, so we must be creative with how we pass our time.

And what better way to pass the time than at Mark of the Beastro, the satanic-themed vegan diner on 666 State Street?

They’ve got some of the best vegan diner food I’ve ever had, and their menu is full of clever plays on words that honor their theme. Their all-day breakfast menu is called the Morning Stars, where you can find items like the “Garbage Hash” or keep it simple with some pancakes.

If you find yourself itching to satisfy a craving at lunchtime, take a peek at their “Burgatory” menu or get a unique “Sinwich” like their fried peanut butter & pepperoncini. Weird, I know, but also delicious.

If none of those pique your interest, you can’t go wrong with their fried pickles. And if you want something sweet, grab one of their milkshakes. They serve them in the cutest little vintage milkshake glasses, sometimes with bat-shaped sprinkles if you go in the fall.

Aside from their amazing food, they’re open relatively late by Utah’s standards. If you’re a student under 21, finding a place to exist past 8 p.m. is a challenge. Mark of the Beastro is open Tuesday through Saturday until 11 p.m. — on Sundays, they close at 9 p.m. instead. Finding a place open on Sunday is already a rarity in Utah, but finding one open until sundown? It’s truly heaven-sent — or hell-sent, in the Beastro’s case.

If you’re looking to unwind after a long day of studying, the diner always has great music playing for all the goths and punks sitting with a Satanic Sundae in front of them. And if you’re lucky, sometimes you’ll get to watch a spooky movie on the small TV behind the counter.

Mark of the Beastro in Salt Lake City on Wednesday, April 27, 2023.
Mark of the Beastro in Salt Lake City on Wednesday, April 27, 2023. (Photo by Sophie Felici | The Daily Utah Chronicle) (Sophie Felici)

Sometimes you even get dinner and a show if you find yourself there on the right night. The Beehive, an intimate venue in the back of the restaurant, frequently hosts live punk shows. They’ve hosted some I really like, such as the Screaming Females.

They also have some of the coolest decor around. Posters and shelves lined with knickknacks such as devil plushies and alien figurines adorn their red and black walls. On one side, you’ll find skateboards with all sorts of interesting designs resting above the tables. And on the other, there’s an array of straight-edge punk posters proclaiming the restaurant as a sober space.

Mark of the Beastro is especially meaningful for people of marginalized identities, who have historically had to access their communities in places where you’re expected to use substances like alcohol. While gay bars have been important spaces for the queer community, queer people are also disproportionately affected by substance use disorder, especially if they face other types of oppression like racism, ableism and more. It’s important for places that serve as gathering spaces for marginalized people to offer safe, substance-free environments.

Mark of the Beastro offers this much-needed environment. The best part of the diner is the way it serves as a community hub for those who don’t fit into Utah’s suffocatingly homogenous culture. I remember eating there once, and a conservative family left their water untouched at the table before fleeing without ordering. Be warned.

They’ve also got a bookshelf filled with books about any form of liberation you can imagine — pages about anti-racism, anti-capitalism, queer history and so much more. They carry copies of local zines and the newest issues of SLUG Magazine, so you can catch up on other local underground happenings at your leisure. Take a second to peruse their walls for flyers, detailing cool local events. They promote silly workshops to somber political gatherings and everything in between.

Traveling there is easy and accessible given the restaurant’s proximity to the TRAX station on 600 South. The bathrooms are gender-neutral and well-maintained with fun graffiti scrawled on every surface.

To put it simply, if you’re satisfied with the status quo, this likely isn’t the place for you.

Mark of the Beastro is an amazing place that draws out equally amazing people. If you find yourself craving good food and community, follow them on Instagram and check them out. And once you’ve been inspired by their fried pickles, buy your friend one of their gift cards so they can experience the magic as well.

 

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@angela_lezaic

This story was updated on May 23 to reflect Mark of the Beastro’s new hours.